'The Burning Bush' : browning's first visit to Asolo, June 1838

Abstract

Robert Browning first visited Italy in June 1838. He set sail on the Norham Castle which was conveying a steam locomotive to Trieste on behalf of the Rothschilds on Good Friday, 13 April. Exactly one month after, according to a summary diary of the voyage which he kept, he arrived at 1.00 a.m. at a place he called 'Goza'. Six hours later he was in Valletta. It is tempting to think that he might have set foot on Malta in 1838, the only occasion when he was in its waters. Such evidence as there is, however, makes clear that whatever the pressure on the captain, Mathew Davidson, to take on fresh water and supplies at this first potential port of call after a difficult journey, he preferred to avoid getting caught up with the Maltese customs and running the risk of quarantine. The HMS Carysfort which arrived the previous day with a cargo of 'sundry utensils' was not so lucky. All its officers and eighteen men were confined in the Lazarretto until 10th June. Captain Davidson probably got what he could from the 'dghajsa' men in the Grand Harbour before sailing on to Trieste where the Norham Castle arrived on 30th May. From Trieste Browning took the overnight steamer to Venice arriving at 7.00 a.m. in the morning on 1st June. From 2nd to 12th June he stayed in lodgings at San Moise and then set off to explore the Veneto for two weeks before returning to Venice on his way to Verona, Austria, Germany, the Low Countries and home.